Salad Dressing Techniques & Know-How

The Emulsification Spectrum

Emulsification is the suspension of one liquid in another — oil droplets in water, or water droplets in oil. In dressings, this determines texture, stability, and how the dressing clings to ingredients.

Temporary emulsion — shaken or whisked without an emulsifier. Breaks within minutes. Example: a simple French vinaigrette whisked at the last minute. Jacques Pépin prefers this: “glossy oiled lettuce with flavour pockets.”

Stable emulsion — requires an emulsifier. Mustard (lecithin), egg yolk (lecithin), miso (lecithin), or avocado (monounsaturated fat + water) all act as bridges between oil and water. Example: Caesar dressing, tahini dressing, Green Goddess.

Permanent emulsion — when fat is physically broken into microscopic droplets and coated with emulsifier. Example: mayonnaise. The two-oil Caesar method (Kenji) exploits this: neutral oil for emulsification, olive oil added by hand for flavour without bitterness.

Fat-to-Acid Ratios by Tradition

TraditionTypical ratioNotes
French classic3:1 oil:vinegarLarousse; many cooks prefer 2:1 for sharper
Japanese wafu~1:1Soy + rice vinegar balance
Mexican/Latin1:1 to 1:2Bold acidity is intentional
ModernVaries wildlyFat is a flavour vehicle, not just carrier
Tahini-basedNo oil neededTahini is already ~50% fat

Key Principles by Tradition

French

  1. Quality over technique. Good Dijon (Maille, Fallot), proper wine vinegars, and excellent olive oil are non-negotiable.
  2. Shallot maceration is essential. Rest minced shallots in vinegar and salt for 10 minutes.
  3. Mustard is an emulsifier, not just a flavouring.
  4. Dress the salad, not the bowl. Just enough to coat — French salads are never swimming.

Japanese

  1. Layer umami. Soy + dashi + miso each contribute different dimensions of savoury depth.
  2. Nikiri mirin. Always burn off mirin’s alcohol before using in cold applications.
  3. Toasting sesame matters. Toast until 2–3 seeds pop — this is the moment.
  4. Shio koji is a secret weapon. Adds enzymatic depth and mild sweetness.

Mexican/Latin

  1. Embrace bold acidity. Latin dressings use 1:1 or even 1:2 oil-to-acid ratios — don’t be timid.
  2. Lime juice over lemon. Mexican key limes are more aromatic; regular limes still far preferable.
  3. Season generously. As Bayless says: “Dressings should be highly seasoned.”
  4. Choose your chile intentionally. Chipotle for smoke, serrano for heat, guajillo for fruitiness.

Modern/Contemporary

  1. Fermentation creates unreplicable complexity. Lactic acid has more depth than any vinegar.
  2. Fat is not just a carrier — it is a flavour. Brown butter, walnut oil, kombu oil, XO — fat is where character lives.
  3. Cross-cultural borrowing is a virtue. The best modern dressings are promiscuous: miso-butter, XO-Caesar, kombucha vinaigrette.
  4. Simplicity at the highest level is the hardest. Alice Waters and Alain Passard have less in their dressings, not more.

Seasoning & Balance

Salt timing: Add salt to the acid component first (vinegar or citrus), before adding oil. Salt dissolves in water, not oil — this ensures even seasoning.

Acid types and their character:

  • Red wine vinegar — bold, tannic, classic French
  • Sherry vinegar — nutty, complex, Spanish
  • Champagne / white wine vinegar — delicate, clean
  • Rice vinegar — mild, slightly sweet, Asian applications
  • Lemon juice — bright, volatile; use fresh, add at the end
  • Lime juice — more aromatic than lemon for Mexican/Asian
  • Citrus + vinegar — combining both adds complexity (ponzu principle)
  • Lactic acid (fermented) — alive, complex, irreplaceable depth

Sweetness balance: A small amount of sweetness (honey, mirin, maple syrup) rounds harsh acidity without making a dressing “sweet.” Start with 5 g and adjust.

Umami boosters: Anchovy (Classic French/Caesar), soy sauce, miso, dashi, shio koji, XO sauce, Worcestershire — all amplify savoriness without tasting of their individual ingredients.

Fermentation Techniques

Used in Noma-Lemon-Verbena-Kombucha-Vinaigrette, Noma-Dashi-Vinaigrette, Noma-Lacto-Fermented-Fruit-Vinaigrette, Noma-Lacto-Fermented-Hot-Sauce-Vinaigrette:

Lacto-fermentation rule: Always use at least 2% salt by weight of the vegetables/fruit. Below 2% risks unsafe fermentation. Above 5% inhibits fermentation and just brines.

Temperature: 20–24°C is the sweet spot for most lacto-ferments. Higher temperature = faster ferment = less complex flavour. Lower = slower = more nuanced.

pH target: Below 4.6 for food safety. Fermented product should taste pleasantly sour, not harshly acidic.

Storage

Dressing typeRefrigerator lifeNotes
Simple vinaigrette (no egg)2 weeksShake before use
Emulsified (with egg yolk)3–5 daysSmell before using
Cream-based3–5 days
Herb-based (Sauce Verte, Green Goddess)3–5 daysColour fades
Miso-based1 monthMiso acts as preservative
Fermentation-based2–4 weeksFlavour deepens over time
Gribiche / Ravigote1 dayBest fresh
Avocado (Crema, Green Goddess)2 daysPress plastic wrap on surface
XO sauce baseWeeksOil-preserved
Salsa MachaWeeksOil-preserved

Ingredient Glossary

Japanese: Koikuchi shoyu — standard dark soy sauce (Kikkoman, Yamasa) · Usukuchi shoyu — light/saltier soy · Kewpie — egg-yolk-only Japanese mayo with rice vinegar · Hon-mirin — real sweet rice wine (not mirin-fu imitation) · Katsuobushi — dried bonito flakes · Kombu — dried kelp (natural glutamate source) · Nerigoma — Japanese sesame paste (more earthy than tahini) · Shio koji — salt-fermented rice koji · Gochugaru — Korean red pepper flakes (smoky, moderately hot) · Gochujang — Korean fermented red pepper paste (sweet, spicy, umami) · Nam pla — Thai fish sauce · Palm sugar — unrefined sugar from palm sap, deep caramel flavour

French: Huile de noix — walnut oil (store refrigerated, use within 3 months) · Huile de noisette — hazelnut oil (more delicate than walnut) · Crème fraîche — cultured cream, 30–40% fat, more stable than sour cream

Modern: Tapioca maltodextrin (N-Zorbit M) — absorbs its own weight in fat to create dry powder · Aji amarillo — Peruvian yellow chile paste (fruity, medium heat) · Pomegranate molasses — reduced pomegranate juice, varies wildly between brands · XO sauce — Hong Kong dried-seafood luxury condiment


Salad-Dressings