Eleven Madison Park Compressed Cucumber and Tomato Salad

Daniel Humm’s kitchen at Eleven Madison Park applied rigorous modernist technique to classical French structures, and this salad is one of the clearest expressions of that approach. Cucumbers and tomatoes are vacuum-compressed — packed tightly in a vacuum bag and sealed, which causes the cell walls to collapse slightly, intensifying flavour and transforming the texture to something denser and more translucent, almost jewel-like. The EMP powdered vinaigrette is made by blending olive oil and vinegar with maltodextrin, which converts the liquid into a dry, free-flowing powder that dissolves on the tongue and releases its flavour instantly. The dish reads visually as a composed salad; it eats like a flavour bomb. It was part of the four-star tasting menu that won EMP the title of World’s Best Restaurant in 2011.

Ingredients (serves 4)

Ingredient	Amount
English cucumbers	2 large
Heirloom tomatoes, mixed colours	4 medium (about 600 g total)
Cucumber water (from compression)	reserved
Compressed cucumber marinade
Rice wine vinegar	2 tbsp
Sugar	1 tsp
Fine salt	½ tsp
Dill fronds, fresh	2 tbsp
To garnish
Crème fraîche	4 tbsp
Fresh dill, fennel frond, or chervil	small sprigs
Micro greens or pea shoots	small handful
Fleur de sel	to finish
EMP Powdered Vinaigrette	4 tsp (dusted over at the moment of serving)

Method

1. Prepare the cucumbers: peel the cucumbers and cut in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Cut into 4–5 cm batons or crescent-shaped slices about 1.5 cm thick, depending on desired presentation.
2. If using a vacuum sealer: combine the cucumber pieces in a vacuum bag with the rice wine vinegar, sugar, salt, and dill. Seal on full vacuum. The compression should be visible — the cucumbers will become slightly translucent and more intensely flavoured. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. If no vacuum sealer: place cucumbers in a zipper bag, press out as much air as possible by hand, and refrigerate under a weighted plate for 2 hours. The result is less dramatic but still good.
3. Prepare the tomatoes: score a small X at the base of each tomato. Blanch in boiling water for 30 seconds, then transfer immediately to an ice bath. Peel the skins — they slip off easily. Cut each tomato into 4–6 wedges, removing the core. Season lightly with fleur de sel and let rest on a rack for 10 minutes to drain excess water. If vacuum sealing, you can lightly compress the tomato wedges with 1 tsp olive oil and a pinch of sugar for 20 minutes.
4. Remove the compressed cucumbers from the bag. Reserve any liquid that has collected in the bag — this cucumber brine is excellent in cocktails or as a base for a mignonette. Pat the cucumber pieces dry with paper towels.
5. Prepare the crème fraîche: season with a pinch of salt and a few drops of the reserved cucumber water. Whip briefly to loosen slightly.
6. To plate: this is where the dish becomes a composed presentation. On each plate, place a small dollop of seasoned crème fraîche slightly off-centre. Arrange 3–4 pieces of compressed cucumber and 3–4 tomato wedges alternating around the plate. The precision of the arrangement matters — this is modernist cuisine and presentation is part of the dish.
7. Tuck small sprigs of dill, chervil, or fennel frond between the vegetables.
8. Add a small mound of micro greens or pea shoots.
9. At the last moment before serving: dust a level teaspoon of EMP powdered vinaigrette over each plate from a small fine-mesh strainer held about 20 cm above the plate. It should land as a light dusting, not a thick coating.
10. Finish with a few grains of fleur de sel.

Notes

• The vacuum compression technique is the defining step. Without it, this is a pleasant composed salad; with it, the cucumbers have a completely different textural and flavour character. A chamber vacuum sealer produces the best results; a household edge-sealer on maximum vacuum works reasonably well.
• The powdered vinaigrette must be made and used the same day. Maltodextrin is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) and the powder will clump if made too far in advance. Store in an airtight container and sift before using.
• At EMP, this dish was part of a longer sequence and the portions were deliberately small. As a standalone first course, increase quantities by 50%.
• Tomato quality is critical — use the best heirloom tomatoes you can source, ideally at peak summer ripeness.
• Wine: Champagne (Blanc de Blancs, zero dosage), or a fine Chablis Grand Cru.

Dressing: EMP-Powdered-Vinaigrette

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Salad-Dressings