Céleri Rémoulade
Céleri rémoulade is one of the great crudités of the French charcuterie counter — raw celeriac julienned and dressed in a sharp, mustardy sauce gribiche or rémoulade. Fergus Henderson included a version in The Whole Beast, where it appears alongside pressed meats and terrines as the kind of bracing, honest food he champions. The dish is found in every Parisian bistro and traiteur from the cheapest to the most elevated. What makes it extraordinary is the contrast: the raw, earthy sweetness of celeriac against the acidic, egg-rich, herb-spiked sauce. The gribiche here, rather than the more common mayonnaise-based rémoulade, gives it a sharper, more complex character.
Ingredients (serves 4)
| Ingredient | Amount |
|---|---|
| Celeriac (celery root), 1 large | about 700 g before trimming |
| Lemon, juice only | 1 |
| Coarse salt (for salting celeriac) | 1 tsp |
| Sauce Gribiche | 6–8 tbsp |
| Flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped | 2 tbsp |
| Capers, roughly chopped | 1 tbsp |
| Cornichons, thinly sliced | 4–5 |
| Fleur de sel and white pepper | to finish |
Method
- Peel the celeriac with a sharp knife, cutting away all the knobbly skin and any dark spots. Work quickly — celeriac oxidises and turns brown on contact with air.
- Immediately rub the cut surfaces with the lemon half to prevent browning.
- Cut the celeriac into thin planks, then stack and cut into very fine julienne strips about 3–4mm wide and 5–6cm long. Alternatively, use the julienne blade of a mandoline. The shreds should be thin and even — this is the labour of the dish, and it matters.
- Transfer the julienned celeriac to a colander. Toss with the coarse salt and let it drain for 20 minutes. The salt draws out excess moisture, which would otherwise dilute the sauce.
- Rinse the celeriac under cold water to remove the salt. Squeeze gently in a clean kitchen towel to dry thoroughly.
- Transfer to a large bowl. Add the sauce gribiche a few tablespoons at a time, tossing to coat. The celeriac should be generously dressed — not swimming, but well coated. Add the capers and cornichon slices and fold through.
- Taste and season with white pepper and a little fleur de sel. The gribiche is already seasoned, so taste before adding salt.
- Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. The resting time allows the celeriac to soften slightly and the flavours to meld.
- To serve: pile onto a plate or into a shallow bowl. Scatter fresh parsley over the top. Serve cold or at cool room temperature alongside charcuterie, terrine, jambon persillé, or roast chicken.
Notes
- Céleri rémoulade is usually made with mayonnaise-based rémoulade sauce. Using sauce gribiche instead — which is oil-based with chopped hard-boiled eggs rather than emulsified raw yolks — gives a lighter, more vinegary result with more textural complexity.
- Fergus Henderson serves this as part of a charcuterie spread with Gentleman’s Relish toast and pressed meats. It is the right context.
- The dish keeps well for 2 days refrigerated; the celeriac softens further, which some people prefer.
- For a more traditional version: substitute the gribiche with 6 tbsp good-quality mayonnaise mixed with 2 tbsp Dijon mustard, 1 tbsp lemon juice, and 1 tbsp chopped tarragon.
- Also pairs well with smoked fish — particularly smoked trout or hot-smoked salmon.
Dressing: Sauce-Gribiche